July 2009

Land of Enchanting Parks

New Mexico offers a dozen state parks at our doorstep

 By Lisa Kay Tate

When it comes to state parks, El Pasoans are much more likely to look toward New Mexico for close-to-home vacations, overnighters or day trips. Nearly all of Southern New Mexico’s 12 state parks are closer to El Paso than the nearest Texas state park outside of El Paso County.
Geological wonders, water sports, cultural and historical sites, birding, native plants and animals, or hiking all await anyone willing to invest a few gallons of gas to explore the Land of Enchantment’s state park system. New Mexico’s southern parks boast many distinctions, including being home to both the oldest park (Bottomless Lakes) and newest park (Mesilla Valley Bosque), as well as New Mexico’s largest lake (Elephant Butte) and southernmost lake (Brantley Lake).
Although some of the parks are more popular in the cooler spring and fall months, or even winter season, others are especially popular for summer boating, fishing and even scuba diving. All of them are open year-round, and most host special summer events, ranging from nature lectures and evening stargazing to live music and historic reenactments … a variety that draws far West Texans across the border every year.
For the record, El Paso has Franklin Mountains State Park and Wyler Aerial Tramway within city limits and Hueco Tanks State Park and Historic Site within the county. Once you leave the county, however, the nearest Texas state parks are at Balmorhea (189 miles) and Davis Mountains (206 miles), which are not much closer than the farthest of New Mexico’s southern state parks (Bottomless Lakes, 219 miles).
Of course, other obvious summer destinations include national parks (Carlsbad Caverns, Guadalupe Mountains), monuments (White Sands, Gila Cliff Dwellings), and other state and federal recreation areas.
Nevertheless, state parks are often overlooked when planning a quick getaway. Here’s what our neighboring state has to offer.

Mesilla Valley Bosque State Park
500 Calle del Norte, Mesilla
575-523-4398

This restored wetland and woodland site officially became Southern New Mexico’s newest state park (and the state’s 34th state park overall) in December 2008, but has been in the making since its groundbreaking, in 2005. Exclusively a day-use facility, it contains trails for hiking, plant and wildlife strolls, and bicycling. In addition to focusing on preservation and restoration of the wetland area along the Rio Grande, the park’s primary focus is education; it is especially designed to serve as an outdoor classroom for all grade levels as well as for families.
Education is of key importance for the park. Heritage educator Alex Mares said that the largest user group since the park opened is schools.
“What we’re working on is getting kids outdoors and appreciating being outdoors,” he said
The park is a strong proponent of a statewide project that creates outdoor curriculum for schools and youth programs.
“From being able to get outdoors and experience nature more, not only are we seeing test scores improve, but an improvement in behavioral problems as well,” Mares said.
A variety of grade-appropriate, hands-on activities are offered through the park, and most groups seem to really enjoy animal identification and tracking stations.
“The kids really get into that,” he said, explaining that stations range from ornithology and botany to water usage and other conservation-minded topics.
Mares said that children who enjoy the offerings during the school year can help their own parents and family members do the same on summer trips to the park. The park offers guided tours and regularly scheduled bird and plant hikes, and even has daypacks available for checkout.
“We like getting kids back out into nature and encouraging them to go home and influence everyone in their own family to get back to nature, too,” Mares said.

Oliver Lee State Park
Off U.S. 54, 12 miles southwest of Alamogordo
575-437-8284

Mostly hidden from view from the main highway, Oliver Lee serves as the site of both a fully restored 19th-century ranch house as well as an oasis-like environment created by natural springs that flow year-round from the walls of Dog Canyon, resulting in an ideal habitat for ferns, columbine and even orchids. The park serves as the trailhead for the Dog Canyon National Recreational Trail adjacent to the Lincoln National Forest. On weekends, guided tours are held to the ranch headquarters of the park’s namesake, Oliver Milton Lee, to learn about the life of 19th-century settlers and the Apache who used the canyon as a stronghold.
Park Manager Wendy Justice said that at least half of the park’s visitors come from the El Paso area throughout the year, although she recommends first-time visitors come in the milder months.
“I personally think the fall is the best time here,” she said. “The weather here is beautiful, and it’s not so beastly hot.”
She said that the park’s biggest draws are the Ranch House Tour and the Dog Canyon Trail, with views of the riparian habitat.
“I would say one thing that makes us stand out is the perennial stream running in a desert area,” Justice said.
For this summer, Justice reminds hikers that the nature trail is temporarily closed for renovations, but Dog Canyon is open to guests as usual. She also reminds those wishing to go on the ranch house hike that it is offered most Saturdays and Sundays at 3 p.m., but not during the weekdays.

Elephant Butte Lake State Park
Off I-25, 5 miles north of Truth or Consequences
575-744-5998

Elephant Butte Reservoir, created by a dam built in 1916, is home to New Mexico’s largest and most-visited lake. It gets its name from its center island, an eroded volcano core in the shape of a reclining elephant. Fishing is one of its most popular offerings, and fishing tournaments are held year-round. Swimming, boating, camping and other water-based recreation fill the park during the summer months, but it also offers walking areas, interpretive programs, and historic exhibits on the work of the Civilian Conservation Corps at the Dam Site and Paseo del Rio recreation areas.
Park Manager Kay Dunlap said that the weekday crowd at Elephant Butte primarily consists of local visitors, but each weekend, the out-of-state visitors — including El Pasoans — make up about 30 to 35 percent of the park’s population.
“April through September is our peak, and we see people taking advantage of a variety of park experiences,” she said, adding that her personal favorite times of year are May, when the weather isn’t too hot yet, and September, just after the larger summer crowds thin out.
As for summer activities, she highly recommends attending the Fourth of July fireworks over the lake, one of the state of New Mexico’s biggest displays.
“I would say come early, as spots fill on a first-come, first-served basis,” she said. “Or come a couple of days ahead of time and make a weekend out of it.”
She said that the park is continually adding more events and recreation options, and those who haven’t been yet don’t necessarily have to come for water sports.
“We have a lot more than just water sports here,” Dunlap said. “We just completed an additional 12 miles of hiking trails and are expanding our experiences all the time. We’re not that far away from El Paso; we like to say ‘short trips, long memories.’”

Leasburg Dam State Park
Radium Springs, off I-25
575-524-4068

One of the oldest diversion dams in New Mexico, Leasburg Dam was built in 1908 and is popular not just with picnickers and campers, but also with canoers, kayakers and swimmers from March to October. A recently added playground and campfire circle now joins the park’s new visitor center. The park also is next to the 19th-century military outpost Fort Selden State Monument, set up in 1865 to protect Mesilla Valley travelers. It was home to U.S. Infantry and Cavalry units, including several Buffalo Soldiers and a young Douglas MacArthur, whose father once served as post commander.
Park Manager Evaristo Jiron said Leasburg is especially susceptible to the “Texas Invasion.” The vast majority of visitors are El Paso and Juárez–area residents.
“It’s safe to say about 80 to 85 percent of our day-use visitors come from that area,” he said. “I’d love to see Las Cruces residents take advantage of the park like that, too.”
The park is open year-round, and he said that summer months are popular for cooling off in the water during the day.
“We have cool mornings and nights here, too, so it is always nice to come then,” Jiron said.
He said that many visitors enjoy the wildlife viewing and picnicking, but canoeing and water activities are a favorite of the park’s clientele.
“It’s a great place to either end or begin your canoe trip,” he said. “If you go from Rincon to the park, it is an incredible scenic ride.”
To accommodate visitors of various needs, Jiron said, the park offers two Spanish/English bilingual fishing clinics each year, as well as safety classes, seasonal music, interpretive evening programs and stargazing.
His advice to visitors is to remember that fishing is allowed, but New Mexico fishing licenses are needed and can be obtained in Las Cruces.
“We also don’t have any local gas stations, so make sure that is taken care of before coming here,” he said. “We don’t want folks to have a bad experience.”
Caballo Lake and Percha Dam
State Parks
Off I-25, 65 miles north of Las Cruces
Caballo, 575-527-8386
Percha, 575-744-5998

Caballo Lake and Percha Dam, although designated as separate parks, are two sides to one natural recreation area, with Caballo serving as the water-recreation lake area and Percha as the more wildlife-oriented river area. Like Elephant Butte, Caballo is a summer destination for boating, sailing, swimming, fishing and windsurfing, as well as nature hiking, especially through its two cactus gardens that come into full bloom in March and April. Percha Dam, which also allows for camping, picnicking and fishing, is known as one of the top five birding destinations in New Mexico, particularly during spring and fall migration seasons. The dam is the site of spring’s Migration Sensation birding celebration.
Saul Barquerra, park superintendent of Caballo and park manager for Percha Dam, said that for both parks, about 50 percent of visitors are from Texas, especially for fishing and water sports.
“Summer is our busy time, and we’re most crowded from April to early fall.”
During this period, he said, all of the holiday weekends tend to draw the biggest crowds, and he advised that first-time guests avoid these times if they want a more intimate park experience.
“If they are coming for the first time, they should come on a regular weekend or during the weekdays, because holidays here are usually pretty packed,” Barquerra said.
City of Rocks State Park
Off U.S. 180, north of Deming
575-536-2800

The park gets its name from its 30-million-year-old rock monoliths, created by volcanic ash, wind, water and time. The park’s skyline-like formations can be found in only six other locations worldwide. New hiking trails have made it even easier for visitors to enjoy the park.
Early visitors to the City of Rocks included Mimbres Indians and Spanish conquistadors. Fauna included javelinas, antelope and jackrabbits. The park’s newest feature is its solar-powered observatory, equipped with a state-of-the-art telescope, which hosts regular stargazing events.
Winter is the most active time at City of Rocks, according to ranger Gabriel Medrano. About 40 percent of visitors year-round are from Texas.
“During the winter months, it is of course cooler and the nearby mountains get snow,” he said, “but the rocks themselves are popular to visit during all seasons.”
He added, however, to be wary of snakes and bring plenty of water during summer.
The most frequently asked question from visitors is how the rocks were formed, and he said that he also gets comments by many who were unaware of how much there was to see and enjoy at the park, including how peaceful it can be away from the main road.
He said that monthly star parties and other events are also well attended.
“People like the quiet of the area and the night sky here,” he said, “especially being able to see it clearly.”
Rockhound State Park
Off State Road 11, 5 miles south of Deming
575-546-6182

The aptly named park’s distinction is its invitation to visitors to take a little of the park home with them. Unlike the “hands-off” policy most parks have toward artifacts and natural items, designated areas in the park allow “rockhounds” to find specimens of silica, quartz, agate, common opals and more. It is also a spot for picnicking, hiking and wildflower viewing (in the spring). Various interpretive programs also are available.
About 80,000 to 90,000 visitors come through Rockhound each year, Park Manager Robert Apodaca said, and of those, about 15,000 to 20,000 come from El Paso and elsewhere in Texas.
He said that despite the desert heat, of which many El Paso residents are already aware, the summer can still be a fun time to visit.
“People should remember to be leery of snakes,” he said, “but during the summer, they can see other varieties of summer flora and fauna at the park.”
Visitors from colder climates take advantage of fall and winter months to camp at Rockhound.
“We’re busier during the winter months due to the large number of RV visitors passing through or stopping for a while,” he said. “Of course, the geology of the park is popular, but we do have hiking trails and Spring Canyon, [which] people like to visit.”
Before visiting, he said, people should know the canyon trail is closed Monday and Tuesday, and they should always be aware of signage cautioning them from restricted or dangerous areas, fire restrictions and schedule changes. Stopping by the main visitors center first is always a good idea.
“I’d like people to see the visitors center,” Apodaca said. “It definitely tells the story of the park’s geological history and cultural history as well.”
The Friends of Rockhound group works year-round with events and park activities, including the spring’s “Desert Alive” wildflower and wildlife celebration, summer’s Music in the Park monthly concerts, bluegrass and mariachi events, and more.

Pancho Villa State Park
NM 11 and 9, Columbus
575-531-2711

Pancho Villa State Park is the site of the only ground invasion of the continental United States since the War of 1812, when the border town of Columbus was raided by infamous Mexican Gen. Francisco “Pancho” Villa and his men on March 9, 1916. This event is still commemorated each year at the park, drawing tourists and history buffs from around the country. New to the park is its exhibit hall, featuring historical exhibits and Mexican Revolution–era artifacts, such as vehicles, weapons, and a full-size replica of a Curtiss “Jenny” airplane used by the 1st Aero Squadron. The park also has a history as the site of Camp Furlong, where Gen. John “Black Jack” Pershing led his own attack into Mexico in pursuit of Villa. It is also a popular winter campground for northern United States and Canada residents wanting to escape the cold and relax among the park’s historic buildings and cactus garden.
Park representative John Read said that the park gets its share of visitors from all over year-round, but during the Pancho Villa raid commemoration on March 9, it is filled with thousands of visitors from both the United States and Mexico, including several horseback riders from Mexico.
“What’s really impressive are the riders who come from deep in Mexico and ride for two weeks to get here for the event.”
“If people come here for the first time, they definitely must see the museum, but the park itself also has some very pretty views,” Read said.
He said that not only are the park’s visitor center, museum area, historic grounds and nature trails popular, but it’s a convenient location to other Southern New Mexico attractions near Deming and Silver City, including Kilbourne Hole, Gila National Wilderness, hiking in the Tres Hermanas and Florida mountains, and Shakespeare Ghost Town.
“What’s neat about this place is right around the area there is so much cool stuff to do, like heading down to Palomas to the Pink Store to shop and eat,” Read said.
The border at Palomas, Read said, is currently “phasing in” the newly created passport requirements for visitors. He said that he has hardly ever heard of negative incidents involving tourists in Palomas, however, and personally feels it is a welcoming community to visitors.
Having come to Columbus from Tampa, Fla., Read said that the hot, dry desert summers aren’t a deterrent for those used to humid climates, but he said that the park is certainly filled during the winter.
“We really are more of a winter camp,” he said. “People from Iowa, Montana and Canada come down to get out of the extreme cold and snow.”

Living Desert Zoo State Park
Off U.S. 285, just north of Carlsbad
575-887-5516

This conservation-minded “living” museum, with more than 40 native animal species and hundreds of succulent plants from around the world, features a walk-through aviary, indigenous Chihuahuan-desert mammals in their natural habitats, and a large greenhouse. Zoo residents include the endangered Mexican gray wolf, mountain lions, bobcats, hawks, kit foxes, mule deer and pronghorn antelope.
Superintendent Ken Britt said that the animal activity and flora found at the park changes with each season, making it ideal to visit at different times of year, but he said that summer visitors will best enjoy their stay if they come during the early-morning hours right after the park opens.
“I recommended visiting us early in the day, when the weather is more pleasant and the animals are more active,” Britt said. “Then they can visit Carlsbad Caverns (National Monument) in the afternoon and enjoy the cool of the caverns in the afternoon.”
The park’s monthly calendar includes evening events, such as Full Moon Zoo walks, live music and star parties.
He said that New Mexico visitors make up the majority of the park’s patrons, but El Paso visitors have been increasing.
He reminds zoo visitors that the park is not a traditional zoo with exotic species from around the world, but is a representation of the variety of species found in the Chihuahuan-desert area.
He said that younger visitors like to see Maggie Oso (a black bear whose original “artwork” is sold in the gift shop), and the succulent garden is also popular, as people can learn about plants from the area as well as from such far-off locations as Madagascar and Asia.
“People love the prairie dogs,” he said. “It’s also a real intimate experience and people can get really close to the animals in a natural environment. I invite people to just come up here, enjoy the walk and relax.”

Brantley Lake State Park
U.S. 285, 12 miles north of Carlsbad
575-457-2384

Brantley Lake is the southernmost lake in the state of New Mexico where visitors can take part in “catch-and-release” fishing and other water sports, as well as camping and picnicking. Its visitor center shows the history of the former Wild West–era community of Seven Rivers, and the park hosts several family-friendly events year-round, including its “Go-Fly-a-Kite” rally in March, Earth Day “Shoreline Sweep” in April, “Kids Fishing Clinic” in May, and Saturday-evening campground programs held weekly through the summer months.
Because the lake isn’t as well-known as Elephant Butte or Bottomless Lakes, Park Superintendent Adrian Stiteler said, more people call the park from El Paso than anywhere else inquiring about its offerings. He said that the park is popular year-round, although the type of clientele changes with the seasons.
“We see a different visitor in summer than in winter,” Stiteler said. “In winter, we see more full-time RVers, who come down to the park to stay in the mild winter climate. In the summer are more local visitors.”
“A lot of people use Brantley as sort of a ‘home base’ for the full Carlsbad experience,” he said. “They come here, go to the Living Desert Zoo and the caverns, or attend a special event happening in town.”

Bottomless Lakes State Park
Off U.S. 380 and NM 409, 13 miles east of Roswell
575-624-6058

The park was the first area in New Mexico set aside for state park designation in 1933 and consists of several small lakes created by water-filled sinkholes in the area’s gypsum terrain. Bordered by red bluffs and popular with scuba divers, swimmers and hikers, the lakes range in depth from 17 to 90 feet and get their “bottomless” moniker from their greenish-blue color. Swimming is allowed in the largest lake, Lea Lake, and visitors can rent paddleboards and pedal boats from the park. Summer special events include Enchanted Evenings programs, featuring both interpretive lectures and entertainment.
Park Manager Stefan Conkle said summer is the park’s busy time.
“Our most popular draw isn’t necessarily a single event, but it is Fourth of July weekend when we get the biggest crowd,” Conkle said. “All of our sites that can be reserved are filled for that weekend at least two months in advance.”
He said that the most frequently asked question by far is if the lakes are really bottomless. They may have a physical bottom, he explains, “but they are ‘bottomless’ in that they are spring-fed lakes that are constantly refilling themselves.”

Some quick things to know

All of New Mexico’s park rangers and managers recommended doing some quick homework before visiting their parks in order to optimize the experience. Even with each park offering its own unique set of activities and attractions, here are some fast “common sense” pointers applicable to all parks:
• Summer hours and winter hours vary slightly at most parks, with extended summer hours between Memorial Day and Labor Day. Always check ahead.
• Several activities are offered year-round on a daily basis, but some guided tours are offered only at certain times or by reservation only.
• In order to keep the parks clean, up-to-date and open, all state parks require a nominal entrance fee. Most often, the day-use fee is $5 per car, with primitive camping fees starting at $8. Some guided tours or special events require additional fees. Some parks have free walk-in fees as well.
• Always be aware of restrictions and temporary closings due to inclement weather and fire restrictions during the drier, hotter times of year. Also, dress accordingly, and know one’s physical limits before taking on activities. Call ahead if there is any doubt.
• Some parks do not allow pets in all areas, and some strictly forbid bringing in items like glass containers, charcoal grills (especially during high fire warnings), fireworks and even alcohol.
• Individuals who frequent the parks are invited to purchase an annual New Mexico State Parks day-use pass for $40. Camping annual passes for Texans and other out-of-state residents are slightly higher than those for New Mexico residents, but all annual passes are good at any park for 12 months after the purchase date. Guests ages 12 and younger visiting more than one park can also ask about the newly created Junior Ranger program.
• To learn more about the New Mexico State Park system, their event schedules, seasonal hours and prices, visit emnrd.state.nm.us.

State Parks at Home

Even if a full day trip isn’t doable, El Paso County’s own state parks are easily accessible for a morning or sunset hike, afternoon picnic or midday getaway:
• Franklin Mountains State Park: El Paso literally embraces Texas’ largest urban park, with all 37 square miles located within the city limits. Best known for its day hikes to sites like Smuggler’s Pass, Aztec Caves or Cottonwood Springs, and mountain bike trails at its Tom Mays unit just off Transmountain Road, the park also offers rock climbing, tent camping, and bird and wildlife viewing. Entry fee is $4 per person, plus a $3 activity fee. Information: 566-6441.
• Wyler Aerial Tramway: The tramway (which is part of Franklin Mountains State Park but also referred to as its own state park) is accessible from the mountains’ east side, conveying visitors in Swiss-made gondolas up 5,632 feet above sea level to Ranger Peak for a 360-degree view of the area, including New Mexico, Texas and Chihuahua, Mexico. The tramway is the only public tramway in the state of Texas, and features viewing stations, a gift store and some concessions at the top of the 4-minute ride over a canyon that curves as deep as 240 feet at some spots. Admission: $7 ($4 ages 12 and younger).
• Hueco Tanks State Park and Historic Site: About 32 miles from downtown El Paso at Hwy 62-180, Hueco Tanks is named for its natural water basins, “huecos,” found in the rocks throughout the park. It is also famous for its centuries-old pictographs, including more than 200 Jornada Mogollon “mask” designs. Self-guided hiking is permitted in most areas, and guided bouldering, pictograph and birding tours are offered on a regular basis. Rock climbing, picnicking, camping and bicycling is also welcome in certain areas. Admission: $5. Information: 849-6684.
• Magoffin Home State Historic Site: Although no longer part of the Texas State Park system, the city’s only historic home site, now operated by the Texas Historical Commission, is at 1120 Magoffin on the east edge of downtown El Paso. The Territorial-style home built in 1875 by El Paso pioneer Joseph Magoffin offers regular tours of the 19-room home, as well as monthly “spirits” tours and special Victorian-era teas in both the spring and during the holiday season. Admission: $3. Information: 533-5147.

 Copyright 2009 Cristo Rey Communications