March 2010
Gallery Talk by Myrna Zanetell
Menu of this month's listings, stories and columns
Be prepared to
be ‘Bedazzled’
by new exhibit
Whether it’s “baubles, bangles and beads” or simply “bling bling,” Sun City audiences, men and women alike and especially our visiting women bowlers, can definitely look forward to a landmark experience when “Bedazzled: 5,000 Years of Jewelry” opens March 27 at the El Paso Museum of Art. Exquisite, sumptuous, opulent! These are only a few of the adjectives that describe the 200 pieces of jewelry on loan from the Walters Museum Collection of Baltimore, on display through July 25.
Spanning 5,000 years — from 3,000 B.C. to the present — objects in the exhibition have been grouped by culture and the period in history they represent, thus allowing viewers to appreciate the evolution of techniques and materials. The pieces themselves become testimony to the importance of jewelry as an expression of creativity, and a tangible symbol of wealth and position in the various societies.
Highlights from the antique period include gold necklaces, earrings and bracelets purported to be part of the famed first-century Greek Olbia Treasure found in a tomb in the region of present-day Ukraine. The most impressive among these are the wide gold bracelets whose centerpieces are linked by hinges to each of two arms. Their lavish embellishment includes cloisonné, multicolored enameling and large gemstones. Later gold masterpieces include a gold and garnet Greek diadem from the third century B.C., and a delicate pair of Etruscan spirals from the seventh century B.C.
Sustained by the wealth of the princely patrons of Italy, the Renaissance and Baroque periods featured a revival in the production of sumptuous jewelry that showcased the talents of some of the greatest artists of the region. Religious, mythological and genre themes were predominant on pendants and hat badges. Enamellers created works of unprecedented intricacy. Watches became an essential accessory of the period, as can be viewed in the collection’s chatelaine with watch from 18th-century France.
Moving on to the modern era, the collection showcases a medallion and scent bottle done in the familiar blue-and-white motif made famous by Wedgewood and commissioned works from contemporary jewelers, such as an iris corsage ornament decorated with 139 sapphires, diamonds and other precious gems designed by Tiffany & Co., and the enamel and sapphire pansy broach created by renowned art nouveau designer René Lalique.
Because rings were the only type of jewelry to be worn continuously through the ages, the exhibition contains a special section devoted to them that includes a “Papal” ring, several Jewish marriage rings, and German gimmal rings, which consist of two or more interlocking hoops.
The last section of the exhibition explores the intriguing questions raised concerning forgeries and replicas. In the early 19th century, increased interest in and demand for jewelry from earlier periods gave rise to the growing market for “archaeological” jewelry. Forgers also seized the opportunity to produce high-quality replicas that even today are difficult to distinguish from the originals.
The presenting sponsor of the exhibition is Susan Eisen, owner of Susan Eisen Fine Jewelry and Watches. Eisen explains that this is her gift to El Paso in honor of the 30th anniversary of her business.
“I’m excited about this opportunity, because jewelry has such a personal meaning for each of us, and this show has something for everyone. The design and quality of the workmanship in the pieces are unparalleled. If you love gemstones, you cannot only view an across-the-board representation of the different kinds of stones, but also learn about their history and how each individual stone was cut to enhance its value and beauty. There is also a history of metal and metalwork. After seeing the show, I particularly hope that audiences will come to value jewelry as fine art rather than simply a commercial commodity.”
From the perspective of a modern jeweler, Eisen relates, “The more we see jewelry as an art form and internalize the design elements in the pieces, the more we tend to work them into the next evolution of our own creations. What is incredible is that artisans centuries ago were able to cut stones and cast metals and hand fabricate with a minimal amount of tools. I cherish seeing what they could do with just the desire to create. Today, we have all the tools that we need to work, but the element of time is missing.”
Eisen is adamant that the men of the borderland will be just as interested in the exhibition as their female counterparts.
“I want men to understand that jewelry is not just a monetary investment. Every piece of jewelry has a story — ‘I got it for my birthday’ or ‘We bought this when we were out of town.’ Jewelry is not a typical gift, like a fur coat or even a car, but something that carries the emotion of the giver forever. Many times, it also gets passed down to the next generation, so it is one of the best long-term investments you can make.”
The EPMA is one of only four venues, and the only one west of the Mississippi, to exhibit this outstanding collection. Museum Director Michael Tomor shares the serendipitous series of events that made this exhibition possible.
“The Walters Museum first developed this as a traveling exhibition from their permanent collection of more than 25,000 objects. It opened at the Ringling Museum of Art in Sarasota, Fl., and from there, it went to the Frist Museum in Nashville. Both reported such an outstanding record of patronage — more than 100,000 visitors each — that the Walters then decided they were missing out on a good opportunity and reopened it at their own museum in 2008.”
Tomor relates that the EPMA fell heir to hosting this exhibition simply by chance.
“I had been talking with the Walters Museum about another traveling exhibition, which showcased a wonderful collection of impressionist paintings. When I tried to arrange for it to come to El Paso, I was informed that the San Antonio Museum of Art had an exclusive for Texas, so the staff suggested we might be interested in the jewelry instead.
“This is such a significant collection. It’s really a story of history of art told through the eyes of jewelry and ornament. One of the reasons most on the borderland don’t think of jewelry as art is because the viewing public only sees objects as they are presented to them, and the EPMA has never done an exhibition of either fine-art jewelry or decorative art.”
Tomor emphasizes, “As a museum, our job is to take people beyond what they already know. However, this form of education can be expensive, but thanks to Susan Eisen Jewelry and Watches, and additional lead sponsors (including The EPMA Foundation, The County of El Paso, Bank of the West, Kemp Smith and South Texas Money Managers Ltd.), we were able to cover the $100,000 fee it cost to bring this amazing collection to El Paso. This exhibition truly represents a first for our museum and our community.”
Arts and Ends
If you’ve ever driven by St. Matthew’s Catholic Church in the Upper Valley, at the corner of Sunset and Riverbend, you might have noticed the church’s beautiful stained-glass windows and wondered about the story they relate. If so, plan to stop by the Adair Margo Gallery, 215 N. Stanton. Friday, March 5, is the opening date for an exhibition showcasing the framed drawings, a photo, and the related scripture for each window. At 12:45 p.m., Stephanie Beard, the artist who designed the windows, will expand upon the symbolism in a more detailed presentation downstairs at The Percolator, 217 N. Stanton.
UTEP’s Student Union Gallery will host “Gods for Future Religions,” a one-man exhibition showcasing the work of one of El Paso’s best-known sculptors, Ho Baron. Opening with a reception on Thursday, March 4, from 7 to 9 p.m., the exhibition will run through April 2. Baron will talk about his work at noon on March 11.
A native El Pasoan and UTEP graduate, Baron is excited about showing an impressive sampling of images drawn from his 30-year oeuvre of surrealistic sculptures.
“These are all works cast at the foundry in Juárez, so I am looking forward to sharing what can be done with casting both in bronze and cement. The exhibition will also include a large sculpture on the lawn of the Student Union Building.”
Information: 747-7469 or 747-5481.
Myrna Zanetell is a freelance writer specializing in the visual arts.
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