February 2010
Becoming Bicultural
A monthly column on Hispanic Heritage and Culture by
Richard CampbellAuthor of "Two Eagles in the Sun"
What’s a Food, a Package, and a Spoon?
Let’s begin with a riddle. In a Hispanic/Latino/Mexican restaurant or home, what constitutes a food, a package and a spoon? The answer, of course, is a tortilla. Tortillas are eaten like bread, filled with refritos (refried beans), they become a package, and often they serve as a spoon to scoop up other food in the meal. That’s three for one.
Background. Author Karen Harsh Graber states that anthropologists have found evidence of tortilla-making equipment in Mexico and Central America as far back as 1500–1200 B.C. She also finds that such discoveries parallel the rise of native pre-Spanish civilizations. Those ancients somehow developed a process called nixtamalization, which involved soaking corn kernels in a type of lime to soften the outer surface and then grinding the softened corn. This increases the protein by “releasing bound niacin” in the corn. The same process also means easy preservation to prevent sourness. If anyone is interested, the ancient name in Náhuatl for tortilla is tlasxcalli. If you used that word to order them in a restaurant, however, you might confuse the waiter/waitress.
Versatility. Tortillas are simply indispensable for enchiladas, tacos, quesadillas, flautas and more recently, fajitas. When filled with beans, meat or potatoes, tortillas become burritos, and if then fried, they become chimichangas. A more recent trend has been to use tortillas as antojitos, or botanas, appetizers or snacks. One food expert, Diana Kennedy, calls tortillas “perhaps the most versatile piece of foodstuff the world has ever known.”
Variety. Tortillas appear in sizes from small to large and in colors from yellow and blue to white. In Mexico, different regions offer different flavors, “depending on local chilies, cheeses, herbs and spices,” according to Graber. Author Reed Henron thinks the flour tortillas developed in the U.S. are most inferior to those made from corn. He states that “their popularity [is] driven by the low cost of inferior grades of flour … and their ability to keep and ship well.” He sees the flour variety as delicious but “nutritionally suspect” and inferior for flavor in Mexican food — or as he says, more like “commercial pre-sliced white bread — convenient but not much else.”
Selection. The same author advises how to choose tortillas. If homemade tortillas are not available, Henron suggests commercial packages with corn tortillas that look as white as possible; this detail indicates less lime and thus a richer flavor. The selection should be soft and flexible. He also recommends selecting those made by a company “that sells lots of them.”
Popularity. In Mexico, despite a long tradition, the traditional tortilla picture is changing. An article in The Albuquerque Journal, which included data from the Associated Press, reported that in Mexico, sales of tortillas are significantly lower than 20 years ago. The big chains have moved into traditional territory. McDonald’s, Pizza Hut, Burger King, Kentucky Fried Chicken, Subway and Domino’s, as well as companies from France and elsewhere, have “invaded” Mexico and have significantly changed Mexican eating habits. The years 1998 to 2004 saw tortilla sales plummet by 25 percent. Average individual tortilla consumption dropped from 308 pounds per year to 228 pounds. Mexicans who like to grab a taco or burrito on the run increasingly turn to a hamburger or a hot dog or a slice of pizza. Why this change? One reason is clever marketing by U.S. companies and their huge advertising budgets. It’s hard to compete with multinationals.
On the other hand, tortilla sales in the U.S. have soared. Sageworks Inc. calculated that tortilla makers stand in the list of the top ten successful companies. Even the American recession has not slowed sales, as people forsake luxury purchases, such as flowers, and look for less-costly items in these hard times. Tortillas also fit well in noon lunch bags.
Another factor is the simple arithmetic of the increasing Hispano/Latino population. Another boost comes from the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s inclusion of tortillas in the WIC program for women and children who live in poverty. A further reason might just be that tortillas impress taste buds.
¡Viva las tortillas¡ The cry of “viva las tortillas” echoes across America, and may that continue — they’re a Mexican gift. On the other hand, it would be regrettable if this Mexican staple gets shoved aside by hamburgers, hot dogs and pizza. First of all, the change in diet will pile up cholesterol in Mexican arteries, and we know what that means. The country faces enough threat from violent drug cartels! In the second place, many would regret the further Americanization of Mexico and its beautiful culture, as hard as that is to understand for some. So, once more, let’s hear a loud “¡Viva las tortillas!”
Richard Campbell lives in Albuquerque.
His “Two Eagles in the Sun” is available at The Bookery, Barnes & Noble and twoeaglespress.com.
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